Get yourself an ATC or a Grigri. For now, I dream about it during the week and go hard on the weekends. This is especially prone to happen when rappelling on both strands of the rope, because you can’t see the wire loop as easily. If there are any twists in the system- the belay loop or the rope and atc, unclip the carabiner and redo it. The most versatile ATC is the ATC Guide (or Petzl Reverso), which includes additional loops that allow you to tie off mid-rappel or connect to the wall for a direct belay. If the rope points upwards when coming out of the ATC, it will twist the belay loop, which weakens the strength of the harness. Or do you prefer to Figure-8-on-a-bight + Carabiner at the halfway point so it can't pass through the ring, rappel down a single strand using a GriGri/Fig8/ATC and pull the knotted side when you reach the ground? It weighs a meager 4.8 ounces keeping the packing weight of gear to a minimum. The important thing is to maintain a controlled, steady pace that you are comfortable with during the descent. The ATC, also known as a ‘tuber’ is probably the most common belay device that people use for climbing. Holding the rope in your right (downhill) hand, pull it behind your back to stop. Step over the rope so it runs by your right side (reverse if left-handed). Run the rope all the way through the quickdraws until you get to the middle mark of the rope. The Best Device For Rappelling: ATC vs Figure 8 VS Rescue 8 and More There are a lot of options going back a long way for devices used to descend a rope. The other strand of the rope should be over the friction mode on the ATC and lead down. TheRockulus.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. The ATC empowers the user to control the speed of descent from slow to fast with ease, and can be used to completely stop the descent in either a rappel or climb. The ATC loop and the rope loop should be sitting side-by-side, they should not be crossing over one another. Slide it through the ATC and clip the loop that you slid through the ATC with your locking carabiner. The most common error when rappelling with a tuber is for there to be a twist in the setup. Pull your brake hand (downhill/right hand) behind your back to stop, or swing it out away from your body to reduce the friction and go faster. Check and double check that your harness and anchor are secure and correct. Lightweight climbers often find it difficult to rappel with tube devices, having to feed the rope through it until their body weight is able to do the job. Commit to learning how to rappel with an ATC and enjoy the thrill of the rappel. Check that both ends of the rope are on the ground and that stopper knots are tied at the end of each rope. Your left hand will be the guide hand and will hold on the other end of the rope that has been secured to the anchors. You can let the rope slide through your hand and around your side to go slowly. This site is owned and operated by In Our Lovely Desert, LLC. Black Diamond named it the “Air Traffic Controller” as a tongue-in-cheek reference to falling climbers. Maintain control by keeping the right hand close to the hip with slight movements up and down to control the speed of the descent based off personal experience. FresKaro 2020 UIAA Certified 25KN Auto Locking Climbing Carabiner Clips,Twist Lock and Heavy Duty Carabiners for Rock Climbing, Rappelling and Locking Dogs, D Shaped 3.93 Inch, Large Size, Black 4.8 out of 5 stars 832. Nick is a member of the Park County Search and Rescue Team as a Wilderness EMT and member of the Technical Rescue Team. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. Many tubular belay devices have two different sides- one with ridges and one without. The specific terms used can vary considerably between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases described here are particular to the United States and the United Kingdom. In a pinch, you can use the old-style Dulfersitz body rappel… The ATC was developed back in the 90s, between 1990 and 1991, to be precise. Now how to use this the ATC in a rappel setting. How To Start Rock Climbing: Learn The Ropes! Nowadays, there are simply better devices out there that are specifically designed for the rigors of climbing! When we came up to the first rappel, I discovered that the 11mm rope was too thick to fit through my ATC! At this point one strand of rope should go up to the anchor. While lowering yourself, keep your legs perpendicular to the wall you are descending. Black Diamond originally developed the ATC back in 1993. Like the well-known phrase ‘Practice makes perfect’ continue to stretch deep and find the strength to overcome great feats and build on skills already learned. With auto lock carabiners, always ensure that the carabiner doesn’t close on the rope, harness, or wire keeper loop instead of on itself. Grab both strands of the rope and double it over. If the right hand is raised slightly up the rope will begin to run freely allowing you to descend. The original one works very well with rock climbing rocks measuring 10mm or more in diameter, while the XP variant is better suited for canyoneering or ice climbing. The Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device (see on Amazon) was made to provide the greatest support in most rappels and help you to maintain significant control. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tough belay device and provides the best value for multi-pitch climbing. If the carabiner doesn’t lock, you could come unclipped from the rope mid-rappel and take a nasty fall. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee This site also participates in other affiliate programs and is compensated for referring traffic and business to these companies at no cost to you.eval(ez_write_tag([[300,250],'therockulus_com-banner-1','ezslot_5',130,'0','0'])); Husband, Father, Wild Animal. It is best to thread the rappel ropes through a rappel device, like an ATC or figure-8 descender. I've tried to write the go-to info for all the Rappelling enthusiasts out there. Petzl GriGri. Those models are the ATC XP, ATC Guide, Verso, Reverso, Smart Alpine, and Giga and Mega Juls. The top of the ATC device will have the friction modes and the bottom will have the ATC loop facing down. Make sure there are at least two anchors (bolt hangers), preferably three. At this point, if you want to continue rappelling or practicing techniques go back to the top of the cliff face and repeat the process. In your haste to beat darkness (and avoid the resulting expensive ticket at the park gate), you forgot to grab the rack off the ledge before you started the rappel. The best way to slow things down within the system is to add more friction. If rappelling using both strands of the rope, thread both strands through. Once completed with the rappel the final step will be to untie the stopper knots on the rope. Do you prefer to rappel from a double strand, eg a rope run through a ring at the halfway point with two strands going through an ATC guide? Different variations of the 8 ring, including a Rescue 8 and the Kong Oka include different protrusions off of the traditional 8 that allow you to tie off the rope mid-rappel; however, I recently ran into an issue using an Oka rappelling down a waterfall where the rope got tangled around the different sections and arrested my rappel halfway down. You won’t regret it! Mule Hitch Method. It was a modification of several previous belay devices, such as the sticht plate. For more information, here’s a list of the top 10 most common rappelling accidents, and how to avoid them. No one wants to get hurt and you don’t want to cause the injury. Get in the habit of always screwing carabiners closed, and of checking them to make sure they are closed. How much does an ATC cost? While Black Diamond created the original ATC, and maintains the ownership of the name, everyone pretty much refers to any tubular belay device as an ATC. They also get mucked up easier with mud and debris often found in canyons. “Multiple friction modes for belay and rappel, Machined windows through device for weight savings, Guide mode works with one or two climbers ascending or descending, Auto-block release hole enlarged to accept a small carabiner, Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught between ropes”. They are designed to stop the rope if there is a sudden jerk on the line, such as a lead fall. For a sport that was considered a... Bouldering and top roping are the two most accessible forms of climbing to try as a beginner, and are the most common ways to climb at indoor gyms. Keep that in mind if you rely solely on an ATC as a rappel device. You cannot use this when rappelling both strands of the rope, but it works great for climbing. Shoppers should recognize that none of the active assisted locking devices can rappel a doubled rope, nor can the passive ClickUp+, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, or Mammut Smart 2.0. I’m Jake Harmer and this is the place I go when I’m not in the mountains/deserts (or tethered to my cubicle). Midway down the rappel, you realize your blunder. Even though the ease of setup for a rappel is simple it must be done correctly to avoid any gear malfunction or potential injury. Outdoor Troop also participates in affiliate programs with Bluehost, Clickbank, CJ, ShareASale, and other sites. As mentioned previously, an 8 ring will always fit any diameter of rope, and can also be used as an 8 block on retrievable rappels. Stop your descent. Double check to make sure the carabiner goes through the loop created by the rope AND the wire keeper loop on the ATC. The mechanics of an ATC are actually fairly simple but ingenious at the same time. To break as you descend lower the right hand below the waist while holding the rope, it will stop the rope from running through the ATC. I ran into another issue a couple weeks ago while going through a canyon in Zion National Park in Southern Utah. I live in Idaho with my wife and three kids and the great outdoors is our playground. Your friend mentions they own a travel trailer, and that if possible, they’d... We all love the outdoors! Because most climbers use the ATC as a belay device and almost everyone has one, it frequently ends up being used as a rappel device when rappelling off of a climb or when canyoneering.eval(ez_write_tag([[728,90],'therockulus_com-box-3','ezslot_3',126,'0','0'])); Rappelling with an ATC is not complicated; however, the repetitive and simple nature of rappelling sometimes leads people to make careless mistakes. These devices are suitable for all types of climbing. If you are on social media, you’ve probably seen photos of people, from old highschool friends to A-list celebrities, participating in the sport of rock climbing. An ATC is used to feed rappel or climbing rope through in a controlled manner. Have a question? From rappelling to camping, from cabins to paramotor, we have the outdoors covered! The more advanced the device, the higher the price- though any of them are relatively affordable. For those of you who don’t know what a figure 8 descender is, it’s a small belay device used as climbing equipment for controlling a rope during climbing. The Black Diamond ATC Sport is identical to the ATC XP, but with only one slot. What is the Best Rappel Device for Climbing? For rock climbing and rappelling, there is nothing more important than your rope. Climbing, Canyoneering, Rappelling, etc. Rappelling with the right gear, training, and experience will create a safer and more controlled environment in the descent. An ATC is one of the best choices, although an 8 ring works very well too. These steps are important to both the setup of the rappel and then the descent. Here's how: Detach your autoblock from below your ATC. The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. Because there is no opening, they have to be added with a locking carabiner or a quicklink/rapide. Style: Brake Assist. You figure why not, the more, the merrier! I won’t be using the Oka, or anything with tie-off capabilities while waterfall rappelling anymore! With an ATC, there’s an extra half inch or so which reduces the risk of the belay getting stuck. When the correct technical skills are applied and used to rappel with an ATC, they will create a safer descent. Take care that these errors don’t happen, especially when it’s dark, wet, or cold. While we provide useful information about how to perform these activities, we recommend that you seek out professional training certifications before guiding yourself. A second carabiner can increase the friction by as much as 20%. Always seek the instruction of a certified climbing or mountaineering guide. The different variations of ATC’s, from the base to the ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso cost between $10 and $30. This glossary of climbing terms is a list of definitions of terms and jargon related to rock climbing and mountaineering. It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. This means more relaxation and enjoyment while rappelling for you! It is a tubular device, which gives it more area and steeper angles for creating friction and stopping power than a Sticht plate belay device. What is the Best Rappel Device for Canyoning? BEST USE: SPORT, … They range in price from $30 to $200, and all essentially accomplish the same purpose. There is just one way to lock off an ATC. Over the years, companies have improved the original idea to meet different needs. Characteristics such as rope material and specific length are all crucial. The last thing you want is to hurdle towards the ground at breakneck speed. Your essential climbing gear is also your rappel gear, with a few additions. Lock off your ATC (If you don't remember how, go back to the rappelling chapter and visit the Stopping on Rappel section). Once feet reach the ground pull the rappel rope out of the ATC. If I could explore canyons and cliffs every day, I would.